Let’s talk turkey. Specifically, Thanksgiving turkey. In my quest to eat ethically and locally, I decided that the only way I was serving turkey on November 25 was if I chose one raised ethically and sustainably.
In order to do so, I logged onto Ithaca’s latest local foods resource, Harvestation, and read up on my turkey options. On the day before Thanksgiving, I will be getting my fresh heritage turkey directly from a farm in Romulus, NY.

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Why choose a heritage turkey?
Typical grocery store turkeys are broad-breasted white birds. Often factory farmed, these turkeys are typically fed grain instead of their natural diet of bugs and grasses, They are bred specifically to grow quickly and to have more breast meat than most birds. As a result, broad-breasted white turkeys are unable to mate naturally, and many have difficulty running, let alone walking. Plus, since they are all the same genetically, illness could easily spread through all of them, wiping out the entire breed.
It’s a different story with heritage turkeys. Though they bordered on extinction 20 years ago, heritage breeds are slowly coming back into the picture. These turkeys are allowed to move around and graze outside, eating their natural diet. There is less breast meat than from a grocery store turkey, but in exchange the meat tends to be more flavorful and juicy since they are allowed to grow at a natural pace and eat the naturally intended diet. Because they can mate naturally, there is more genetic diversity among heritage turkeys. This means that they are unlikely to be wiped out as a species should illness crop up.
So, to sum it all up:
Broad-Breasted White Turkeys
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PROS
- More breast and white meat
-
CONS
- Often factory farmed (exceptions may apply to turkeys labeled sustainably-raised or organic) and not allowed to eat their natural diet
- Cannot mate naturally, providing very little genetic diversity in the breed
- Bred to grow quickly and have more breast meat, so it is difficult for them to run or walk and impossible for them to fly
Heritage Turkeys
-
PROS
- Typically more flavorful and juicy
- Often more humanely treated (allowed to spend time outside and eat their natural diet)
- Able to mate naturally, run, walk and fly
- More genetic diversity
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CONS
- Less breast/white meat
- May be more expensive since it takes longer for the turkeys to grow to size
Want to know where you can get a heritage turkey for yourself? Check out these resources:
http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com/
Your local Farmer’s Market
Just a note: Since heritage turkeys are harder to find, you usually need to order in advance. But it isn’t too late–you can still order now!
What’s going to be your main course on Thanksgiving? Do you think a heritage turkey is worth the extra cost? Leave a comment — no judgments here!
Resources:
http://www.localharvest.org/features/heritage-turkeys.jsp
http://www.sustainabletable.org/features/articles/thanksgiving/











{ 28 comments… read them below or add one }
Why is “less white meat” a con? In my family, we fight over the dark meat – it’s where the flava is!
I should clarify: it isn’t a con for me, but for a lot of people it is…that’s why they breed the broad-breasted to have more breast meat!
Hmmm, If it was a small, family gathering I would definitely pay more for an ethically raised turkey – for my bigger, friends thanksgiving it would just be too expensive
Totally understandable. Feeding more people = needing to be more cost conscious. It might be worth looking into, though… the heritage turkey I am getting is $4/lb, which isn’t terrible
Great idea! If I was hosting, I would definitely look into this option.
I love animals. I want them to be treated well.
I also like to eat them… (The normal ones that we eat: cow, turkey, pig. I don’t eat dog or anything like that!)
What I am curious to know is… would there be enough Turkeys to feed everyone who wants one for Thanksgiving it this questionable way of raising them weren’t used? I’m not saying that that is an excuse to raise them this way… I’m just wondering if this method of raising Turkeys is needed to keep up with the demand… or if its just easier/cheaper….
I don’t cook. I’m sure my mom will buy her Turkey from the store like all the past years. My dad would cringe at the idea of paying double or more for one that is better raised. He’s not much into what the Turkeys feel…
That’s the ultimate dilemma I think. Where do we draw the line for human comfort and afford-ability in regards to the treatment of animals. Everyone draws this line in a different place…
Man this discussion brings me back to Food Micro! Hey Jules!?!
I can’t find any solid information on whether or not there would be enough heritage turkeys for everyone. Since the factory farming of broad-breasted white turkeys almost drove the heritage breeds to extinction, I would guess that right now the answer is no. But, the more people that request heritage turkeys, the more likely that more and more will be raised each year, hopefully!
I think the issue is that in the long run, factory farming will hurt our comfort and the affordability of meat because it simply isn’t sustainable. It doesn’t just hurt the animals, but also the environment, when turkeys or any animal is factory farmed.
But I agree, cost can be a huge concern, and you have to figure out where you/your family falls on the spectrum!
yes, we ordered our turkey from a farmer as well. also good to point out is that a turkey eating their natural diet is healthier. that is, the bird is healthier and therefore the people eating it will be too! its the only way i’ll buy meat. good topic!
True! Factory farmed birds are more prone to illness because of their living conditions, so they are often pumped up with antibiotics…and bacteria are evolving to be less susceptible to these treatments.
I love that you researched this and chose a Heritage turkey! I think it’s worth the cost (especially for a great holiday feast) and the pros far outweigh the cons for ethics AND nutrition.
I’m planning to make a couple of vegan options for Thanksgiving this year. Not 100% certain yet but probably a harvest quinoa salad and lots of roasted veggies.
Love it! There are so many things you can do with quinoa…that’s what I had as my main course instead of turkey last year!
I would love to have a heritage turkey, but I’m the guest so I’m guessing it’s grocery store turkey for me. I think the main reason my family doesn’t get them is cost.
The problem isn’t that Heritage Turkeys are expensive…the problem is that customers have been taught that poultry products should be cheap…people are willing to pay $6.99 to $7.99 lb. for steak but they don’t way to pay more than .99 lb. for poultry products. Great article
I hadn’t thought of it from that approach!
This year I wanted to be super rustic, getting a real local turkey and plucking it and brining it ourselves. Unfortunately, my family didn’t think this sounded so “fun”, so we settled and decided to get a roasting turkey from Whole Foods. I think that’s pretty good. The animal is guaranteed to have been raised on a vegetarian diet and not treated with growth hormones. And I realize I’m still a “guest” and will be able to buy whatever turkey I want when I host and pay.
Sidenote: Last year I discovered that I LOVED a roasted tofurkey as a vegetarian substitute, but since then have had to eliminate gluten which is a large part of the ingredient list
Oh well.
I can see plucking/brining not being for everyone! I’ll admit, I think I’d be afraid to do it!
I can’t eat meat for health reasons. However I think the idea of heritage turkeys are wonderful. They aren’t that expensive if you compare it to other organic meat. Also for me there is no need to eat a ton of meat with great side dishes available.
The cost would be prohibitive to my family because they feed so many people but for us it wouldn’t bother me. Being just Hunni and I this year…I’m roasting him a heritage chicken.
Last year I got a WONDERFUL free-range organic turkey from a local farm and it was actually cheaper than what I would have paid at Whole Foods (but not Butterball :/ ). That aside, when you say Heritage turkey do you mean free-range, organic (or all natural) raised? Because I have heard that an actual heritage bird (ie a turkey strain that is from early 1900′s, or that is almost extinct, and is the type I think you are talking about) is MUCH more difficult to cook. Last year on NPR I heard a great interview with Jose Andres (a famous chef in the DC area where I live) and he talked about the difference in cooking a heritage vs ‘regular’ bird, and that a heritage bird is a tougher bird to cook and not dry out. I would do a lot of research into cooking heritage birds, as most recipes this day are designed for a butterball/free-range type turkey and not a specialty bird like a heritage.
This is just my opinion, and advice, I just want you to have the best turkey EVER!
Hmm, I hadn’t heard that. There are 8 or 10 breeds of heritage turkeys, so I’m not sure which one they were working with. I’ll definitely do some research before cooking our turkey though–thanks!
Neat! I don’t eat meat but I would do this if I needed to buy one (we bought one last year, I’m just not hosting again!).
I would actually only consider eating a hertiage turkey if I were cooking thanksgiving for myself and my family! No store bought birds for me!
Thanks for the great post, Julie. I’m in a simliar situation about Thanksgiving. I don’t eat meat because I don’t agree with how the animals are treated in factory farms, but I’m thinking of eating turkey on thanksgiving, only if my dad can get one while hunting! That way it falls within my ethical guidelines!
Interesting. You should write a post about the topic! I want to know more about your ethical viewpoints on eating meat!
I absolutely believe in buying a heritage turkey and think it is worth the cost. Especially during the last year or so, I’ve really become conscious and focused on eating ethically, locally, organically. It’s not easy all the time, but I can think of few things that feel so rewarding and worthwhile. You set such a great example, Jules.
Thank you so much, Andrea. Your comment made my day!
Even though I’m not a meat eater, I think it’s definitely worth the cost! I mean, if you adore Thanksgiving food like so many people do, it would make sense to spend a little extra on a high-quality bird. Put your money where your heart is!
We have Thanksgiving at my Aunt Wendy’s house every year, so I never really have a choice as to where the turkey comes from. And, honestly, I never really thought twice about it :/ But now that I do think about it, I’m pretty positive that she buys the turkey from the farmer’s market. I’m not sure if ours offers Heritage (or just how organic/free range it actually is), but I’m thinking it’s got to be at least somewhat more ethical than from the grocery store!
@ Julie-Great site and it’s wonderful to see that you’re spreading the word about Heritage turkeys. I had a Black Spanish last year grown by a local organic farmer and it was wonderful brined. You’re right about the white meat being scarce on these long-legged birds, but they are rich and flavorful. Just be careful to cook low and slow or they’ll get dried out. Eating a Heritage turkey, like a Black Spanish, Bronze or Slate, which are grown here in CT, revives culinary traditions and ensures genetic biodiversity. It also gives you something interesting to talk about that actually relates to the origin of the holiday. These turkeys are hard to find so each year I publish a local turkey buying guide http://fairfieldgreenfoodguide.com/2010/11/04/a-guide-to-sourcing-your-local-thanksgiving-feast/
Thanks for the link!
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